Lisbon Cafes & Food
I’ve had a few people ask me for tips and suggestions on where to coffee and eat as many of you will be planning a visit to this wonderful city. I meant to get this out much earlier, but it’s been a busy couple of months, so apologies! I will update this soon as there are a few I’ve missed out.
Recently I spent a month in Portugal, mainly Lisbon with a couple of days in Porto. Lisbon is one of those places where the light is always just right. I’ve been to Portugal many times before (mainly to surf), so I had only spent a few days in Lisbon itself. It was great to get a better feel for the city, it’s people and what it has to offer.
It’s breezier (as in wind) than I remember, but actually the breeze is refreshing because the sun is so warming. That might sound strange, but it’s the kind of sun that feels like soft kisses on your skin, and the breeze allows you to breathe and keep being kissed!
Obviously travelling during the pandemic, it wasn’t so touristy (which I liked). It was quiet and chill. I imagine once the pandemic improves, things will be more lively and carefree like once before. I was really careful and didn’t’ visit anywhere too crowded and always wore a mask. In fact most people there wore masks outside too, so I felt disrespectful if I wasn’t wearing one! The worst thing would be to contract Covid in a foreign country, so it really is something to be vigilant about.
The main thing I took away from Lisbon is that generally you can walk around the city easily. I love walking, but there are a lot of hills. I’m ok with this, as it doubles as my daily exercise. However, if you want more flexibility a car is really really handy. The trams and buses are pretty straight forward too and cover the city regularly and very well. The main thing I noticed was how nice and helpful the locals are in general. They love their country and that’s a really great sign. They were so eager to speak English with me too - though probably because I kept trying to force my broken Portuguese on them.
So enough chat, here’s a quick list of some cafes and places I visited so you can too!
As I go back to Portugal, I will update this blog….
COFFEE CAFES
Comoba - Great little spot. I only stopped in quickly but the space is beautiful, creamy and modern. They are using a La Marzocco Strada and my flatwhite coffee was delicious! It has a great reputation with the proper specialty coffee crowd here. They are serving fair trade, organic specialty coffee, roasted in small batches by their partners at Outpost Coffee Roasters & Sgt. Martinho.
Milkees - Super cute place, but literally the week I left, they moved into a new location close by and probably more accessible. The owner was great to chat to and there were lots of local coffee beans to choose from. Their house coffee was by Roast Berry and there was a great selection of coffee from WOW coffee roasters that I took home with me. They do great baking and biscuits and are just doing something really good for the specialty coffee industry here. You can see they’re passionate and striving for excellence and just nice, humble, generous people and friendly conversation.
Hello, Kristof - This is a local cool spot. The coffee was ok, and the vibe inside reminded me of a modern library maybe because it is a magazine shop/cafe. Great, huge selection of creative hipster magazines that line the walls of the cafe and the whole vibe is scandi-chic. Great spot for a quiet meeting or some alone time over coffee.
The Mill - Owned by Auzzies, the breakfast menu reflects this comically but also for me it was nice and familiar. The UK is much better at breakfasts these days in line with what us antipodes are used to, but the best thing about this cafe is the vibe from the staff. Really fun. I like that they have good systems, but are relaxed and super personal. Say hi to Rubin if you go!
Neighbourhood - This is owned by an Auzzie too! You can hear it as soon as you walk in, that familiar twang! This is a great spot to watch the trams go by. There was a lot of road works when I went, but it’s a cute street. They get their coffee from Silo in Berlin (another great cafe) and they have Scandi style coffees like from La Cabra (Denmark) if you’re into lighter roasts. Great to see this here!
Heim - I have been here almost every time I’ve visited Lisbon. Mainly because I like that it’s small, has lots of plants, run by a couple of women and their pancakes are awesome! I like making pancakes, but these are goals! like their whole menu actually. It’s healthy but substantial. The outside dining is great because it’s limited seating on a cute quintessential narrow Lisbon street.
Fauna Flora - This place is cute and always very busy. So if you want an outside table, best to get in early or see if you can book. Inside is much bigger than I expected, so there are lots of indoor tables. I got takeaway the few times I came here and their card machine was down so that was annoying. But their food is really varied and a lot of it healthy. They serve nice coffee.
Lusophonica - This is in Cascais a super nice area just on the coast of Lisbon. You can catch a train out for less than £5 and it takes about 30minutes. A great little spot within the museum that doubles as an international indie radio station out the back and cafe in the front. The setting is incredible. Surrounded by blindingly beautiful white walls next to the famous lighthouse, you can get breakfast and coffee (from The Mill) here - and beers. I would coffee then jump in the lagoon next door. Perfection. You can listen to and watch their DJ’s live here: lusophonica.com PS: Watch this space though….😘
Fabrica Coffee Roasters - A crowd favourite and probably one that most people recommend first up. It’s good.
Copenhagen Coffee Lab & Bakery - There are a couple of these cafes dotted around in Lisbon. Nice to stroll to and get a tasty coffee and baked good.
Buna Portugal - they have just relocated from a little space to a much bigger space with more tables and an outdoor area. Unfortunately for some reason their Lamarzocco linear had only just been turned on before I arrived at 9.30am so I was told I would have to wait another ten minutes or so for my coffee. They open at 9am usually and maybe it was a slow morning with the new location change. I was in a rush to be at my ceramics class (most people in Lisbon don’t rush) but I decided to wait anyway to practice my not-rushing. My oat flat white was nice as I enjoy my coffees on the hotter side over tepid (against the annoying trend that was happening a while back). Definitely a lovely place to sit in a cute courtyard on a sunny day drinking good coffee from @dropcoffeeroasters from Sweden. I’ll go back soon and try their filter coffees soon.
Food and Other Places:
Da Noi Lisboa - I’ve been wanting to come here for ages. What a fantastic night i had here. I was with a bunch of amazing women most of who I only got to know through the course of dinner. Da Noi managed to squeeze eight of us into the back area (the restaurant is small and not many big tables) - but my friend is a regular so it wasn’t a problem. However, there was still a strict 2 hour sitting which I realised why, as they were super busy.I was in prime position near the pass so I could get a good glimpse of the food as it came out - my mouth watered at everything I saw. The food was brilliant as was the waitress. She was noticeably efficient, while not being imposing. For anyone in the hospitality biz, that’s a hard balance. She commanded a difficult table to wrangle with ease and yet still seemed like she was enjoying herself, making sure we would leave happy and giving us personal attention. I also dug their uniform. My negroni came over fast (and perfect) and I got nods of “I got you”. We had the grilled spatchcock chicken, tiger prawns, tuna tacos, white beans (which came highly recommended) as did the gnocchi (that I generally don’t like, but this was lovely) , asparagus and mushroom with egg and truffle (omg) , beef carpaccio and the burrata (divine). The dishes were delicious, and i’ll be back for sure - maybe for something a little more intimate next time ;)
Ponto Final Restaurant - is just on the other side of the Tagus River in Almada which you can drive or catch a ferry to. It is probably one of my favourite spots ever - There’s something about dining on fresh seafood right next to the water, watching the dolphins and sunset while drinking wine. It’s touristy, but if you can get a table on the pier, you’ll not notice. The food is delicious and traditional and if you arrive early, theres a small pop up bar around the bay where you can grab a mojito, sit on the grass and watch the sail boats. Booking essential.
O Frade Restaurant - Great little local place in Ajuda. There are a few tables outside and you can also sit at the bar which I did. The food was absolutely amazing. Razor clams, zesty cockles and cured tuna were just some of the dishes thoroughly enjoyed. Prices are comparable to London in that it’s not super cheap, but I think it’s reasonable and fair considering the quality. Alcohol is much cheaper in Lisbon than London, so the bill is less because of it. They have a great selection of wine too, but we went with the vinho verde because it’s so refreshing with good seafood and shellfish. Tip: Try to book before you go though!
IF* you try to walk in and they’re full, there’s a great little local spot around the corner on the left next to a pizza place (can’t remember the name!) It has traditional style grilled fish that’s really good too - and very cheap! Get the cockles if available!
LX factory - in Alcantara near the river. Super cool wide lane way of bars, restuarants and markets full of trinkets, indie designers and local businesses selling their wares. Really great vibe. I enjoyed white and red sangria in the shade, and got myself some comfy Tiger Pants! growl!
Prado Mercearia - the general store is a beautiful, casual place to get your deli items and sourdough breads, but if you can sit in and have a 3 course lunch, I’d recommend that too, with a glass of wine. A quiet spot with chic wares and classy clean vibes. They also have a more up market restaurant Prado Restaurant too that I hear is amazing.
Coyo Taco - There is a Coyo Taco originally started in Miami, there are now spots around the world like France and Panama. They’re modern, reliable tacos with great drinks. It’s not cheap like in LA or Mexico, but it’s good if you’re craving taco vibes. Lot’s to choose from here and they have a couple of great spots in the city.
Crispy Mafya - Great cocktails, KIorean chicken and 90’s hip hop, super fun vibe. What’s not to like. It’s also in the very popular area Principe Real. So, get in there. It also happens to be on a very cute street so you can take pics of the bougainvillaea and washing hanging outside buildings blowing in the breeze like I did. 😂😬
Mercado 31 de Janeiro - this is a fruit, vege and fish market. I’ve been to Campo De Ourlique Market which is great too, a little more. gentrified and “time out” vibes, but the Mercado 31 de Janeiro feels a little more local and authentic, even though it’s still really well laid out and nice. If you’re staying a while and find you want to cook at home a few nights, I found the people really helpful, but the veges were great quality and super cheap with loads of selection.
A Valenciana - I’m obsessed. A family owned and run traditional Portuguese Chicken restaurant/takeaway that is my favourite in Lisbon! Ask for Peri Peri if you like it hot. I’ve lost count how many times I’ve been. I don’t even eat much meat generally, but you can’t beat this charcoal traditional chicken and you find this in Nandos! It’s my axis point to anywhere in Lisbon as it’s the only place I know where it.is at all times. ha! They make their own hand cut and fried crisps too… #justsayin
Honest Greens Amoreiras - If you like big salads and fast service go here. Was great to get my vege intake in a modern “Eat” type fast service restaurant in a lovely setting.
Gate 1 & 2 Gallery - A sustainable fashion shop. There are two in Lisbon - Campo De Ourlique and Barrio Alto. I got a luscious hand knitted wool cardigan there, knitted by ladies who had lost their jobs due to the pandemic. They take end of line fabric and create their own limited lines and offer cute jewellery collected from around the world travels. Along with up-cycling designer clothes.
Praia Princesa, Caparica - If you’re looking for a boujee restaurant and beach lounge to feel all chic and fancy visit here! Book in for lunch and sit under a grid of white posted shade on a deck overlooking sun beds and ocean. Idealic really.
Bikes and Beers - if you want to go for a bike ride in Monsanto, you can hire bikes here (with helmets) and ride straight from the shop. The Trails range from easy to pretty gnarly and they will give you a map to find them. Afterwards ride back to the shop and grab a beer or 5! It’s pretty fun. If you watched my stories on instagram at the time, you’ll see I crashed and fell off a few time, but thats because I’m committed.
